Japan’s Cabbage Crisis: A Perfect Storm of Climate Change and Inflation
Tokyo: Japan’s much-loved "tonkatsu" pork cutlets come with a mound of freshly shredded cabbage, but a surge in the price of the humble vegetable has prompted chef Katsumi Shinagawa to skimp on servings.
The Culprit: A Changing Climate
Last year’s record summer heat and heavy rain ruined crops, driving up the cost of the leafy green in what the media have dubbed a "cabbage shock." The heat has also made extreme weather more frequent and heatwaves more intense worldwide.
A Perfect Storm for Restaurants
Shinagawa’s Tokyo restaurant Katsukichi offers free cabbage refills alongside its juicy, deep-fried cutlets – a common practice with tonkatsu, a national comfort food. However, with cabbage now over three times more expensive than usual, the restaurant has had to make each serving slightly smaller.
Inflation Hits Hard
In Japan, the heat has also made lettuce, green onion, and "daikon" radish more expensive at the checkout. Rice prices are soaring after harvests were hit by high temperatures and water shortages. Official inflation data shows that the grain jumped a whopping 64.5% in December year-on-year.
The Impact on Restaurants
The weak yen, labour shortages, and rising transport costs have created a perfect storm for Japanese restaurants. Japan saw a record 894 restaurant bankruptcies last year due to inflation, the cheaper yen, and the end of pandemic-era government subsidies. Convenience chain 7-Eleven has also announced price hikes nationwide for onigiri rice balls, sushi, and other rice-based items.
A Recipe for Disaster
Chef Shinagawa does not want to pass on the price increases to his customers. "We’re persevering," he said, but the future looks uncertain for Japan’s restaurants. With prices expected to rise for around 6,000 food items in 2025, it’s a challenging time for chefs like Shinagawa to balance the books.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Why is cabbage so expensive in Japan?
A: Climate change and extreme weather events have ruined cabbage crops, driving up prices.
Q: How has the heatwave affected other vegetables in Japan?
A: Lettuce, green onion, and "daikon" radish are also more expensive due to the heat and dry weather.
Q: What is happening to rice prices in Japan?
A: Rice prices are soaring due to high temperatures and water shortages.
Q: How will the rising costs affect Japanese restaurants?
A: The weak yen, labour shortages, and rising transport costs have created a perfect storm for Japanese restaurants, leading to a record number of bankruptcies in 2022.