The Salted Cod of Portugal: A National Staple
A Traditional Recipe
Portuguese chef Julio Fernandes’ dish ‘Bacalhau a Minhota’ is a traditional cod-based recipe.
Salt cod has long been a national staple in Portugal, where it is said there are as many recipes for this humble fish as there are days in the year. And at Christmas, the dried and salted fish is central to meals at family gatherings in Portugal, the world’s biggest consumer of "bacalhau" as it is called here, just as turkey is at Thanksgiving in the United States.
The most traditional way to prepare salt cod is to bake it in the oven and serve it with boiled potatoes. But it can also be grilled, turned into fritters or even used to replace meat in a lasagna.
A Rich History
The central role of cod in the country’s cuisine is surprising since the fish, which thrives in deep icy waters such as those around the North Atlantic, has never existed in Portuguese seas. Introduced to the country in the 16th century, salt cod represented a nutritious and non-perishable food source for Portuguese sailors on their long sea expeditions to the Americas and Asia.
At first, this fish was a food exclusive to the aristocracy but it gradually became popular as well among lower classes as supply increased, bringing down prices. Salt cod started being regarded as "the meat of the poor". It is also referred to as "o fiel amigo" or "the faithful friend".
A Cultural Phenomenon
Consumption boomed in the 20th century during the decades-long dictatorship of Antonio de Oliveira Salazar, which subsidised cod fishing expeditions off Canada’s eastern coast and Greenland. Today, salt cod dishes are often sought out by tourists who visit the country.
"Coming to Portugal and not tasting salt cod is like going to Brazil without visiting Rio de Janeiro," said Jessica Baptista, a 33-year-old Brazilian tourist, as she left the D’Bacalhau restaurant in Lisbon. Specialising in traditional cod recipes, the eatery cooks "a minimum of eight tonnes of cod every month," said its owner Julio Fernandes, 68.
A Challenge for the Future
Portugal accounts for almost 20% of the world’s consumption of this fish, which is caught mainly in Iceland and Norway. The sector employs more than 2,500 people in Portugal, with sales worth 500 million euros last year, according to AIB figures. Producers predict a fall in consumption this year due to a rise in price which jumped nearly 15% to hit nearly 14 euros a kilo in 2024.
They also find younger generations are losing interest, in part due to the time it takes to prepare salted cod. The fish must be soaked in several changes of cold water before cooking. "Reaching out to young people is our big challenge," said Vera Xavier, head of production at the Riberalves cod processing plant near Lisbon.
Conclusion
Salt cod is an integral part of Portuguese cuisine and culture. With its rich history and versatility, it is no wonder that it remains a staple in Portuguese households. However, producers are facing a challenge in reaching out to younger generations who are losing interest in this traditional dish.
FAQs
Q: What is the most traditional way to prepare salt cod?
A: The most traditional way to prepare salt cod is to bake it in the oven and serve it with boiled potatoes.
Q: Why is salt cod an important part of Portuguese cuisine?
A: Salt cod is an important part of Portuguese cuisine because it has a rich history and is a staple in many Portuguese households.
Q: What is the future of salt cod consumption in Portugal?
A: Producers predict a fall in consumption this year due to a rise in price and a decline in interest among younger generations.