The Wonders of Yogyakarta – All Earth, Wind and Fire

A City of Harmony and Contrast

I was back visiting Yogyakarta recently. If you hate crowded cities full of asphalt and skyscrapers (Jakarta, I’m looking at you) you’ll find Yogya very accessible, comfortable and affordable, too. It’s my favourite Indonesian city.

Yogya is unique for being the intersection of two wonders, human and natural. They’re bound to each other, even if often sitting uncomfortably together.

Borobudur: A Human Wonder

A human wonder is Borobudur, the ancient Buddhist temple from one of Yogya’s earlier kingdoms. It’s perfect for a half a day’s tour, not being big and sprawling like the Angkor temple complex, which can take days and even weeks to be fully visited.

The temple, or candi in Indonesian (and Malay, too) has been much restored over the years, with a brand new tourism complex that handles its visitors more efficiently.

But the complex itself is just blocks of boring concrete buildings with some crude cement rendering to evoke a Borobudurian air. It works, but doesn’t complement Borobudur at all.

Prambanan: Another Human Wonder

There’s also Prambanan, a complex of hundreds of Hindu temples, built roughly contemporaneously with Borobudur, in pre-Islamic days when the kingdom swung from Hinduism to Buddhism and back.

Different styles, different vibes, but magnificent nevertheless. They offer regular evening Ramayana ballet shows, something not to be missed. There’s another version in the city, with fireworks, flames and enough monkey characters swinging from the rafters to give your heart palpitations.

Health and safety (and child labour) issues aside, it’s not the same as the one actually at Prambanan itself, which is an outdoor show.

The Wonders of Nature

Yogyakarta has many other historical places. Google them. But go outside the city and into the mountains to see a natural wonder.

Gunung Merapi: A Fiery Mountain

Gunung Merapi, Indonesia’s most active volcano, is my favourite volcano among the many volcanoes which form my most favourite part of nature. It looms large, physically and spiritually over Yogyakarta, even more so in the past.

A major eruption in 2010 caused a lot of deaths and destruction. The volcano has been erupting regularly, such that by 2021 it was closed for climbing altogether.

This was my third visit to the mountain. It’s quite crowded with local tourists excitedly being whirled around in old 4x4s with bald tires and zero safety features.

I climbed Merapi in 2012, not long after its big November 2010 eruption. A peak with smoking fumaroles and the occasional earthquakes is like nothing else on earth. It felt more like a beast; living, breathing, sullen and angry and literally about to blow its top.

As I sat then at the crater’s edge, I knew that the ledge did not come into existence until the 2010 eruptions, and would disappear soon enough in future eruptions – which it did.

The Power of Nature

Merapi, part of the Pacific “ring of fire”, figures very prominently in the cultural and spiritual life of the region. That’s not surprising given its ability to kill but also to give life to its surroundings at the same time.

There’s an emergency bunker on the mountain slope, used for the first and last time in the 2006 eruption, when two unlucky rangers sought refuge there amidst the flowing ash and rocks.

Both died, including the one who went into a tank of water to escape the heat.

Our guide to Merapi said laconically, and without any trace of irony, that one of the rangers was grilled, while the other was boiled!

But that’s how the locals see things there. There is the constant danger that at any minute you could be on the wrong side of the mountain and a pyroclastic flow coming down; you’re grilled, or boiled…and either way, toast.

There’s fatalism. The volcano giveth, the volcano taketh away. The land there is amazingly fertile, and many villagers would only evacuate reluctantly, and often return before it’s safe, sometimes to tragic consequences.

The People of Yogyakarta

What else? Food is good, and familiar. While Indonesians are friendly, Yogyakartans take it to another level altogether. Prices are reasonable and Malaysians should have no problem with language. The rupiah is quite low against the ringgit right now. Their batiks and silver jewellery are amazingly beautiful, and affordable.

The people there, even though overwhelmingly Muslims, carry their traditions well, being pious and religious but also proud of their varied histories and cultures.

We stayed for a few nights in the grand and quite historical but rather down-on-its luck house of a friend’s parents. There were krisses and paraphernalia for shadow plays everywhere, as the house used to be the kampung’s cultural centre.

A Great Place to Visit

The story of Yogyakarta and Merapi is quite like that of Vesuvius and Pompeii (which I’ve also visited) except that it’s right in our own backyard. As the world turns crazy, I’m even more focused on visiting, or revisiting, places in our part of the world that somehow aren’t being appreciated and respected enough.

It’s part of our shared heritage. I unashamedly feel proud about what they have achieved there as if it’s my achievement too.

Conclusion

Yogyakarta is a city that has a unique blend of human and natural wonders, each complementing the other. It is a place that has a rich history, a vibrant culture, and a breathtaking natural beauty. Whether you are interested in history, culture, or nature, Yogyakarta has something to offer.

FAQs

Q: What are the must-visit attractions in Yogyakarta?

A: Borobudur, Prambanan, Gunung Merapi, and the surrounding natural beauty of the city are must-visit attractions.

Q: What is the best way to get around Yogyakarta?

A: The city has a good public transportation system, and it is also possible to hire a taxi or take a private car.

Q: What is the local cuisine like in Yogyakarta?

A: The local cuisine is a mix of Indonesian and Javanese dishes, and it is known for its delicious and affordable food.

Q: Are there any cultural events or festivals that I should attend in Yogyakarta?

A: Yes, there are many cultural events and festivals throughout the year, including the Ramayana ballet show and the Yogyakarta International Cultural Festival.