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Trump must decide soon if US jeans will still be made in Africa

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NAIROBI, KENYA: THE FATE OF AFRICAN GROWTH AND OPPORTUNITY ACT (AGOA) HANGS IN THE BALANCE

The factory on the outskirts of Nairobi, Kenya, is a far cry from the American heartland, yet the Wrangler and Levi’s jeans rolling off its production line are a testament to the transatlantic connection. With a workforce of 10,000, the United Aryan factory is a beacon of hope for the local community, providing a decent wage of $200 a month to its employees. But the very existence of this factory, and hundreds of thousands of others like it, hangs in the balance as the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) faces an uncertain future.

A Brief History of AGOA

AGOA, a 25-year-old US law, provides duty-free access to thousands of goods made on the African continent, particularly in the clothing sector. The programme has been a boon for African countries, attracting foreign investment and creating jobs. The United States benefits from Africa’s cheaper labor, especially in the cost-sensitive clothing sector.

The Stakes are High

AGOA will expire in September unless President Donald Trump agrees to extend it. The decision is putting hundreds of thousands of African livelihoods on a knife-edge. The United Aryan factory, which ships up to eight million pairs of jeans to the United States each year, is just one of many companies waiting with bated breath for the outcome. With a time crunch looming, the factory and its clients need to know by the end of March if AGOA will be extended, or production lines will grind to a halt.

A Region Transformed

The United Aryan factory has not only created jobs but has also transformed a once dangerous area of the city. CEO Pankaj Bedi recalls the challenges faced by local gangs, who would often steal everything down to the copper cable when the factory first set up in 2002. Today, the community is thriving, with 150,000 people directly or indirectly dependent on the factory. "Today, you can see, it’s a well-developed community," Bedi said. "We have 150,000 people who directly or indirectly depend on us. It has stabilised the whole socio-economics of the area."

The Fight for Survival

The factory has faced major ups and downs, including new global trade rules in 2005 that swamped markets with Asian clothing, the 2008 financial crash, and the Covid-19 pandemic. "There were many times when we thought we should give up," Bedi said. "But when you have 150,000 people dependent on what you do, you have a responsibility. Shutting down a business is a five-minute job, but to establish and create this kind of platform is not easy."

The Road Ahead

Both Republicans and Democrats in Congress support an extension of AGOA for at least 12 years, giving companies the long-term security to thrive. However, all bets are off with Trump, given his skepticism to free trade. One hope is that Trump will see AGOA as a way of countering Chinese influence in Africa, especially after he axed billions in humanitarian aid.

Conclusion

The fate of AGOA hangs in the balance, and the consequences of its expiration would be far-reaching. The United Aryan factory, and hundreds of thousands of others like it, rely on the programme to survive. As the clock ticks away, one thing is clear: the future of AGOA is uncertain, and the world is watching with bated breath.

FAQs

Q: What is AGOA?
A: The African Growth and Opportunity Act is a 25-year-old US law that provides duty-free access to thousands of goods made on the African continent, particularly in the clothing sector.

Q: What is at stake?
A: The expiration of AGOA in September will put hundreds of thousands of African livelihoods on a knife-edge, and the United States will likely turn to cheaper factories in Asia.

Q: What is the position of the US government?
A: The programme has bipartisan support in Congress, but President Donald Trump’s free-trade skepticism makes the outcome uncertain.

Q: What is the time crunch?
A: The factory and its clients need to know by the end of March if AGOA will be extended, or production lines will grind to a halt.

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